In many countries the proprietor would consider it rude if you did not haggle. They know the hand carved drum is over priced. They know you know the hand carved drum is over priced. And you know they know......... And if you don't act like there is even a possibility you will buy it he will take it as a personal insult that you don't think his crafts are worth your time. When I was in New Mexico last year I somehow got it into my head that I needed a hand made shaman's drum. You know, the kind they beat in the sweat lodge until your peyote button induced hallucinations, vomiting, and trembling make you so disturbingly twisted that you actually believe you were present when Pte-San-Hunka ( Chief White Bull) shot Custer with his own gun. Or so I have heard. Anyway I was driving through the Cochiti Pueblo near Albuquerque when I happened upon a small ranch house with a sign outside reading "handmade native drums for sale". Tammy was at her CEO meeting back in town so I was on my own. Not that she could have protected me from the three wolf-dogs growling at me as I got out of my rented Chevy Cavalier. No, I value Tammy more for her abilitity to prevent me from getting ripped off for a chachka I will regret buying in eight months .
Tammy is a very shrewd haggler. There is really nothing she wants so badly that she isn't willing to walk away if she hasn't bent the opposing party sufficiently to her side of fair. Me, on the other hand, they can smell my enthusiasm for their trinkets the minute I get off the plane. Our first trip together was a five day excursion to Jamaica in 1984. I had just graduated from dental school and to pay for the trip I cashed a $500.00 bond my grandmother had given me for my thirteenth birthday. I say thirteenth birthday and not bar mitzvah because, you know, I wasn't. Anyway, we were not yet married, but after this trip there could be no doubt that Tammy was the one who would take care of me for better or for worse. We took a bus trip to a small "crafts village" that consisted of several rows of grass huts neatly aligned, with the artisans sitting outside patiently waiting to show off their wares and hopefully sell a handwoven basket to the well-heeled tourists. As is our way, we were methodically browsing the huts in the proper order but an overly enthusiastic merchant from two rows down kept running up to us trying to make us skip all the shanties between our current one and hers. After ten minutes of her cajoling, Tammy had finally had enough. "I don't like your attitude" Tammy admonished her. "Now we aren't going to stop at your hut at all. We are going to skip right over it". Meanwhile this woman had no shoes and I could clearly see the fifth through sixteenth ribs under her tattered t-shirt. What does this have to do with haggling over the price of a handwoven Jamaican straw hat?
Well, we left the village with various handwoven palm leaf contrivances smug in the knowledge that we really pulled one over on those peddlers. This stuff would cost three times as much at Pier One. Meanwhile, the ten dollars we saved was meaningless to us yet it probably would have fed an entire impoverished family in Jamaica for two weeks. You see, people brag all the time about the great bargains they were able to wrangle from the natives while visiting a mostly impoverished nation. Then when there is a hurricaine or tsunami, we guiltily send off a check for $50.00 to help those very same villagers. My point is the twenty dollars means a hell of a lot more to some rug dealer in Pakistan than it does to the rich tourist who harassed him out of it and then brags about it. But as I said earlier, they expect you to haggle so maybe I don't have a point.
Even Barack appreciates a good drum |
Well, I banged that drum both day and night sitting in my cabin for about six months hoping for some primal spiritual vision. It never came. Now it sits up high on a shelf, silent and alone. But the spirits might have smiled on me after all. Two years later and that check has still not been cashed.
What a great story Richard. I want to hear that drum some day... It would be wonderful in the cabin...
ReplyDeleteYou really don't want to hear him play. . .but you can see the beautiful drum next time you're at the cabin.
ReplyDelete